After the restoration: Engine teardown [page 13]

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Thursday, July 15, 2010 [19326 miles]

I'm finally finished with digging holes in the back hard now that I found and fixed the broken sprinkler control wires. The broken wires turned out to be where I initially thought they'd be and dug the first hole... three holes later I found them at the first location, but 10 inches deeper. Anyway, today the crank will go back in the case. It's been sitting in the pool house refrigerator since Sunday.

Oil pump gears installed

Oil pump gears installed

Oil pump gears installed
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm
Slinger screws

Slinger screws

Slinger screws
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm
New washers

New washers

New washers
ISO 50 f/3.5 1/60s 12.6 mm
Tools and parts

Tools and parts

Tools and parts
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm

Prep, first. I started by lubing the oil pump gears with assembly lube and putting them in the front main bearing carrier. Then I opened the package containing the new slinger and gave it a good wipe down. After adding a touch of blue loctite to the slinger screws I got new wave washers ready for the front bearing carrier nuts and screws and used some loctite here, too. Finally I made sure all of the tools were ready.

Heat

Heat

Heat
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm
Crank from 'frige

Crank from 'frige

Crank from 'frige
ISO 50 f/3.2 1/60s 8.5 mm
Crank all the way down

Crank all the way down

Crank all the way down
ISO 50 f/3.2 1/60s 9.6 mm

Heat case with Mapp gas torch. Get crank from 'frige. Heat case some more. Drop crank into case. Easy.

Slinger installed

Slinger installed

Slinger installed
ISO 50 f/3.5 1/60s 14.9 mm
Front bearing w/carrier

Front bearing w/carrier

Front bearing w/carrier
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm

The next step is to install the slinger, stake it down, add the front spacer, then press on the front bearing w/carrier and pull the crank forward. Not hard, but two things add to the difficulty: The case is hot. the Oil pump gears want to fall out if you are not careful. I didn't burn any fingers or lose any gears. Guess I did something right.

Front slinger gap

Front slinger gap

Front slinger gap
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm
rear slinger gap

rear slinger gap

rear slinger gap
ISO 50 f/2.8 1/60s 7.3 mm

The slingers don't rub when I spin the crank and the push rods seem to be centered when checked with a rule. But... these new slingers aren't sitting flat on the face of the crank. This is easily seen when rotating the crank. The gap on both slingers varies from barely touching the case to about 1 mm. It looks to me that the part of the slinger that fits into the indent at the crank pin is long enough to bottom out, keeping that edge of the slinger higher on the crank, making it closer to the case. I'm going to think about this for a while before doing anything more.

Case protection

Case protection

Case protection
ISO 69 f/3.5 1/60s 21.7 mm
That's all for now

That's all for now

That's all for now
ISO 50 f/3.5 1/60s 14.9 mm
Too hot in garage

Too hot in garage

Too hot in garage
ISO 100 f/4.1 1/50s 29.2 mm

There's another reason for calling it a day. It's 85 in the garage. It's hotter than that when working over an engine case heated to 250F or thereabouts. I put some cable ties on the bottom cylinder mounting studs to keep the rod from banging on the end of the case then covered the case in plastic until the next time.

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